The charming stopping town on the Iseji Trail

Kumano (熊野市) is a city in southern Mie Prefecture, located on the Kumano Kodo Iseji Pilgrimage Route, which connects Ise and Kumano Shrines. It incorporates authentic areas of the old pilgrimage route, including the Matsumoto Pass trail in Kumano City. The eastern Kii Peninsula is less popular with tourists and pilgrims, but still boasts beautiful destinations worth discovering, such as the city of Kumano.

Let's explore the city between nature and spirituality

Shichiri-mihama beach and Shishi-iwa rock

Kumano City rewards travelers who venture to the southeastern part of the city with a view of Shichiri-Mihama Beach, the 20-kilometer-long pebble beach that stretches from Kumano City to the mouth of the Kumano River. Shichiri-mihama pebbles are considered sacred, so it's common sense not to take even a bit. From the end of April, koi carp populate the sea to celebrate Kodomo no hi.

Another highlight of the beach is the Shishi-iwa rock, considered one of the sacred sites of the Kii mountain range, due to its natural shape resembling a roaring lion, majestically watching over the sea.

Continuing the walk in the opposite direction you reach the Hananoiwaya-jinja Shrine where in February and October you can witness the ritual of renewing the rope.

Onigajo Coast

Shaped by nature, earthquakes, and the waters of the Pacific Ocean, the rocks on the Kumano coast resemble works of art. The cliffs have been eroded by water, creating a mineral landscape with picturesque, jagged contours. A popular legend holds that oni demons once lived within these caves, giving the sea its name, Onigajo. A trail has been built to get as close as possible to the rocks and enjoy splendid ocean views.

Kumano Festival

A major event in the area is the Kumano Fireworks Festival, the Kumano Hanabi Taikai, held on August 17th. With around 10,000 explosions, this is the largest fireworks display in Mie. It's a huge, creative fireworks display that sees rockets launched into the sky from boats anchored in the open sea. This huge amount of fireworks explodes in the sky, illuminating the nearby mountain, creating a truly mesmerizing spectacle.

Magose Pass

The hike over the Magose Pass is a taste of the ancient Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route. Used for centuries to reach sacred sites throughout the area, it is now part of the Kii Mountains pilgrimage routes. The hike through the area through the pass is one of the most evocative stretches of the entire route.

Reaching Mount Tengura you can enjoy a magnificent view of the coast.

Matsumoto-toge pass on the Kumano Kodo

After relaxing on Mount Tengura, it's time to head up into the hills to reach the Iseji Way, one of the ancient pilgrimage trails of the Kumano Kodo. Although few traces of the trail remain, the few preserved sections that cross the mountain range are beautiful, including the Matsumoto Toge Pass, accessible from the Onigajo coast, and the Magose Toge Pass, accessible from Owase.

In the center of the forest, a path follows a stream, but the soil is very hard, preventing the tree roots from sinking in. For this reason, they have grown shallow and are long to keep the trees upright. Intertwined with stones and moss, they create a captivating landscape. The summit of Matsumoto-toge is dominated by Jizo statues surrounded by bamboo and a high vantage point overlooking the coast.

Hana-no-iwaya Shrine

Hana-no-iwaya Shrine, meaning "flower cave," is one of the archipelago's oldest Shinto places of worship. According to popular belief, there seems to be a connection between Japan's history and mythology and the divine origins of the imperial family, as the site is linked to the death of the founding goddess Izanami.

The shrine's unique feature is its Honden, formed by two rocks, the larger of which is 45 meters high. Prayers are addressed to the rocks that personify the kami worshiped at the shrine: Izanami no Mikoto and her son Kagutsuchi. A must-see experience: walking barefoot along the path of sacred pebbles, collected from Shichiri-mihama beach.

In spring and autumn, you can witness the Otsunakake Shinji rope-changing ritual, which involves stretching a rope between the large sacred rock and a tree as a good omen.

How to get there

Kumano-shi can be reached by the JR Kisei line, as well as by buses that serve the area and also go to Hana no Iwaya Shrine. To reach Onigajo Rocks, take a bus to the Onigajo-higashi-guchi stop and then continue on foot. The entire Kumano area is therefore accessible and traversable by bus.